Sector guides

Sourcing worsted wool whipcord fabric from China

Worsted wool whipcord fabric from China carries 6% to 8% UK duty under heading 5112, with most wool and synthetic blends at 8%. Specify the actual fibre blend and weight, and check fibre labelling before sale. Inspect the raised diagonal ribs and dimensional stability. Cambridge China Bridge sources worsted wool whipcord fabric.

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Written by Bono Xu, Founder, Cambridge China Bridge · 4 min read · Updated 2026-11-13

Illustrative view of olive-grey worsted wool whipcord fabric folded to show its tight steep diagonal raised cord weave and smooth durable surface.
Illustrative image

Duty by fibre blend and fabric weight

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 4 October 2026, heading 5112 covers woven fabrics of combed wool or combed fine animal hair. Worsted wool whipcord falls within this family when its composition meets the heading. The supplied Chinese-origin lines carry 8% duty, except the line containing more than 10% silk, which carries 6%. No anti-dumping or countervailing duty or tariff suspension is recorded.

The tariff attaches CITES import controls throughout, and a cat and dog fur import control to 5112 19 00 00. Cat and dog fur and products made from it are banned from import. If a blend includes protected animal hair, confirm the applicable CITES documents with your customs broker before ordering. Species in Annex A or B require permits; UK Border Force checks and endorses the documents.

Whipcord is a weave description, so confirm the commodity code using tested fibre percentages, whether synthetic fibres are filaments or staple fibres, and finished weight. Several lines divide at 200 g/m². For the wider heading, see our worsted wool cavalry twill guide.

UK duty on these lines for goods of Chinese origin (one code per row), read from the UK Trade Tariff on 4 October 2026.
GoodsCommodity codeDutyAnti-dumping or countervailing duty on China
Whipcord with at least 85% wool or fine animal hair, up to 200 g/m²5112 11 00 008%None
Whipcord with at least 85% wool or fine animal hair, over 200 g/m²5112 19 00 008%None
Worsted whipcord mixed mainly with man-made filaments5112 20 00 008%None
Worsted whipcord mixed mainly with man-made staple fibres, over 200 g/m²5112 30 80 008%None
Worsted whipcord containing more than 10% silk5112 90 10 006%None

Specify the whipcord rib and finish

Approve a physical sample showing the raised diagonal rib, its direction, spacing and prominence. Record fibre percentages, yarn count, finished weight, usable width, shade and handle. State whether the cloth is for trousers, uniforms or outerwear, and agree the intended cleaning method and acceptable dimensional change.

Check the weave against the sample rather than accepting the name alone. Agree tests for fibre content, pilling, rubbing fastness and shrinkage after the intended cleaning process. For sale in Great Britain, textile labels must show fibre content, including fur and other animal parts. Keep the composition report with the approved sample.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 5,000 m² of wool-rich worsted whipcord, 180 g/m² under 5112 11 00 00, invoiced at £60,000 free on board, with £1,500 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £61,500. Duty at 8% is £4,920. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £66,420, so it is £13,284. Import taxes total £18,204; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £4,920 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Ribs: compare diagonal direction, spacing and definition with the approved sample; look for interrupted ribs, missing yarns and uneven finishing.

Dimensions: measure usable width, finished weight and roll length; check bowing and skew that could distort trouser panels.

Shade and handle: compare rolls and both ends of each piece; check colour variation, excessive surface hair and differences in stiffness.

Condition and records: check for damp, mould, creases and damaged wrapping; match roll identifiers and fibre descriptions to the packing list and test report.

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What goes wrong

A smooth sample can arrive as cloth with flattened ribs or a harsher finish. Skewed fabric makes the diagonal line sit unevenly across garment panels, while shade changes between rolls complicate cutting. Fibre substitution can also change handle and cleaning behaviour.

Relaxation or cleaning shrinkage can spoil the fit of tailored trousers. Test production cloth before cutting, retain samples from inspected rolls and record faults against roll identifiers. Use an agreed inspection brief so the mill and inspector assess the same rib, shade and stability requirements.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.

Frequently asked questions

What is the UK import duty on worsted wool whipcord from China?

The supplied heading 5112 lines carry 8%, except the line containing more than 10% silk, which carries 6%. No anti-dumping or countervailing duty is recorded.

Does whipcord have its own commodity code?

The supplied tariff lines distinguish fibre composition and, for several lines, fabric weight. Confirm the blend, synthetic fibre form and finished weight rather than classifying by the whipcord name alone.

What should I check before cutting whipcord trousers?

Check rib direction, fabric skew, usable width, shade across rolls and dimensional change after the intended cleaning process. Compare production cloth with the retained approved sample.

Why does wool whipcord show a CITES control?

The heading also covers fine animal hair, which can include protected species. Name every animal fibre and ask your customs broker to confirm whether CITES documentation applies to the actual blend.

Sources

  1. UK Trade Tariff — commodity codes and duty
  2. Textile labelling
  3. Check if you need a CITES permit
  4. Trading or moving CITES-listed specimens through UK ports
  5. Importing animal furs and skins

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