Sourcing worsted wool serge fabric from China
Worsted wool serge fabric from China pays 6% to 8% UK duty under heading 5112, depending on fibre composition. Fibre labelling rules apply when selling textiles in Great Britain; check protected animal hair against CITES requirements. Specify twill, weight and shrinkage. Cambridge China Bridge sources worsted wool serge fabric.
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Duty by fibre blend and fabric weight
Heading 5112 covers woven fabrics of combed wool or combed fine animal hair, including worsted wool serge. Select the line from the actual fibre blend and fabric weight, rather than the trade name alone. Confirm the commodity code using a composition report and measured weight. See our wider worsted wool fabrics guide for other fabrics within this heading.
Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 9 November 2026, the supplied lines carry 8% duty for goods from China, except the qualifying other fabrics containing more than 10% silk by weight, which carry 6%. The supplied data records no anti-dumping or countervailing duties and no suspensions. Wool content of 85% and fabric weight of 200 g/m² distinguish relevant lines.
The tariff attaches CITES import and export controls across these lines, and cat and dog fur controls to 5112 19 00 00. For serge containing protected animal hair, confirm the species-specific CITES permit requirements with your customs broker before importing from China. Imports and exports of cat and dog fur, including products made from it, are banned.
| Goods | Commodity code | Duty | Anti-dumping or countervailing duty on China |
|---|---|---|---|
| Serge with 85% or more wool or fine animal hair, up to 200 g/m² | 5112 11 00 00 | 8% | None |
| Serge with 85% or more wool or fine animal hair, over 200 g/m² | 5112 19 00 00 | 8% | None |
| Other serge blended mainly or solely with man-made filaments | 5112 20 00 00 | 8% | None |
| Other serge blended mainly with man-made staple fibres, up to 200 g/m² | 5112 30 10 00 | 8% | None |
| Other serge blended mainly with man-made staple fibres, over 200 g/m² | 5112 30 80 00 | 8% | None |
| Other wool-silk serge containing more than 10% silk by weight | 5112 90 10 00 | 6% | None |
Specify the serge twill and finishing
Specify the fibre blend, worsted yarn count, twill construction and direction, fabric weight, usable width, colour and finish. Describe the intended use, such as tailored trousers, jackets or uniforms, and retain an approved fabric sample. Agree limits for bow, skew, shade variation, cloth faults and changes after pressing.
Agree tests for fibre content, pilling, rubbing fastness and dimensional change under the intended cleaning method. Check the handle and diagonal twill after finishing, rather than approving an unfinished swatch. Ask the mill to identify each dye lot and record usable lengths so the cutting room can keep matching pieces together.
Worked duty example
Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 200 m² of worsted wool-polyester staple-fibre serge under 5112 30 10 00, invoiced at £1,800 free on board, with £200 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £2,000. Duty at 8% is £160. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £2,160, so it is £432. Import taxes total £592; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £160 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.
Inspection checklist
Fibre and labels: compare composition testing with roll tickets and invoices. In Great Britain, the textile label must show fibre content, including fur and other animal parts.
Construction: inspect the diagonal twill, usable width and weight against the approved sample. Mark broken ends, missing picks, knots, holes, bow and skew; check usable roll lengths.
Shade and handle: compare rolls and the centre and edges of each piece under consistent lighting. Check for shade bands, uneven finishing, excessive lustre and a harsher handle.
Stability and packing: test shrinkage after the agreed cleaning and pressing process, plus pilling and rubbing fastness. Check for dampness, mildew, crushed rolls and mismatched dye-lot labels.
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What goes wrong
A sample has a clear twill and firm handle, but bulk cloth arrives with uneven finishing, shade bands or skew that twists trouser legs. Relaxation or cleaning shrinkage changes garment dimensions; weak rubbing fastness transfers colour to linings. Keep a retained sample and compare finished bulk cloth before cutting.
A wool claim can conceal a different blend, affecting handle and the commodity line. Separate dye lots before garment production and agree how faults and unusable lengths will be recorded. Arrange testing and certification support around the actual fabric, colour and finish.
Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.
Frequently asked questions
What is the UK import duty on worsted wool serge from China?
The supplied tariff data shows 8% for the main wool and wool-blend lines, or 6% for qualifying other fabrics containing more than 10% silk by weight. No anti-dumping or countervailing duties are recorded.
Does the name serge determine the commodity code?
No. Use the actual fibre composition and fabric weight. The relevant tariff lines distinguish wool content, filament or staple-fibre blends, and weight where specified.
Which tests should I request for wool serge?
Check fibre composition, weight, pilling, rubbing fastness and shrinkage under the intended cleaning method. Trial pressing and cutting to assess handle, skew and garment stability.
Why does wool serge show a CITES control?
The heading also covers fine animal hair from protected species. Identify any animal-hair blend and confirm species-specific permit requirements with your customs broker before shipment.