Sourcing worsted wool cavalry twill from China

Duty by fibre blend and fabric weight

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 4 October 2026, heading 5112 covers woven fabrics of combed wool or combed fine animal hair, including worsted wool cavalry twill. The supplied lines carry 8% duty for Chinese goods, except fabrics containing more than 10% by weight of silk, which carry 6%. No anti-dumping or countervailing duties or tariff suspensions are recorded.

The tariff attaches CITES import and export controls to every line. Identify any animal-hair blend and ask your customs broker to confirm whether the control applies; importing CITES specimens into Great Britain requires a permit. Code 5112 19 00 00 also carries cat-and-dog-fur import and export controls. Cat and dog fur and products made from it are banned from import and export.

Confirm the commodity code using the fibre composition, filament or staple blend and measured weight. The name cavalry twill alone does not select a code. See the wider worsted wool fabrics guide for other fabrics within this heading.

Specify the cavalry-twill ribs and finish

Approve a physical swatch showing the pronounced diagonal ribs, their direction and spacing, and the intended face. Record combed-yarn construction, fibre percentages, yarn count, fabric weight, usable width, shade and finish. State whether the cloth is for trousers, uniforms or tailoring, and agree the required handle and drape.

Test a sample after the intended cleaning and pressing process before approving bulk cloth. Agree acceptance criteria for shrinkage, pilling and rubbing fastness, and retain the approved swatch. Textile labels must show fibre content, including fur and other animal parts; check the composition against the test report.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 5,000 square metres of heavyweight worsted wool cavalry twill under 5112 19 00 00, invoiced at £60,000 free on board, with £1,500 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £61,500. Duty at 8% is £4,920. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £66,420, so it is £13,284. Import taxes total £18,204; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £4,920 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Construction: compare rib definition, direction, spacing and surface finish with the approved swatch; look for missing ends, broken picks and distorted ribs.

Composition and dimensions: verify fibre identity, fabric weight, usable width and piece lengths against the order and packing list.

Shade and stability: compare pieces and both edges with the shade standard; check shrinkage and rib alignment after the agreed cleaning and pressing trial.

Packing: check for dampness, mould, crushed rolls and permanent creases; match roll identifiers to the batch records.

What goes wrong

A generic wool twill can arrive in place of the approved cavalry construction, with flatter ribs or a different handle. Skewed ribs become conspicuous after cutting trouser legs. Mixed shade lots create mismatched panels, while unstable finishing causes shrinkage or puckering after cleaning.

Inspect across the usable width and compare rolls before releasing cloth for cutting. Keep suspect lots separate and record faults against roll identifiers. Agree replacement or reprocessing with the mill using the retained swatch and the inspection results.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.