Sourcing worsted wool herringbone from China
Worsted wool herringbone fabric from China carries 6% to 8% UK duty under heading 5112, depending on composition. Fibre labels must show the content, and any protected animal hair needs a CITES import check. Specify the herringbone repeat, weight and finishing. Cambridge China Bridge sources worsted wool herringbone fabric.
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Duty by fibre composition and fabric weight
Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 4 October 2026, heading 5112 covers woven fabrics of combed wool or combed fine animal hair, including qualifying worsted herringbone. The supplied lines carry 8% duty for goods from China, except the other-fabric line containing more than 10% silk by weight, which carries 6%. No anti-dumping or countervailing measures or tariff suspensions are recorded.
The tariff attaches CITES import and export controls. For Chinese fabric treated as a CITES specimen, an import permit is required; confirm the species-specific documents with your customs broker. Code 5112 19 00 00 also flags cat and dog fur import and export controls. Imports and exports of cat and dog fur and products made from it are banned. Ask the mill to identify every animal fibre.
Confirm the commodity code using the combed fibre composition, blend partners and finished fabric weight. Herringbone appearance alone does not determine classification. For related fabric within the wider heading, see our worsted wool cavalry twill guide.
| Goods | Commodity code | Duty | Anti-dumping or countervailing duty on China |
|---|---|---|---|
| Herringbone with at least 85% wool or fine animal hair, up to 200 g/m² | 5112 11 00 00 | 8% | None |
| Herringbone with at least 85% wool or fine animal hair, over 200 g/m² | 5112 19 00 00 | 8% | None |
| Worsted herringbone mixed mainly or solely with man-made filaments | 5112 20 00 00 | 8% | None |
| Worsted herringbone mixed mainly with man-made staple fibres, up to 200 g/m² | 5112 30 10 00 | 8% | None |
| Worsted herringbone mixed mainly with man-made staple fibres, over 200 g/m² | 5112 30 80 00 | 8% | None |
| Other worsted herringbone containing more than 10% silk by weight | 5112 90 10 00 | 6% | None |
Specify the herringbone weave and finish
Give the mill an approved fabric swatch and state the herringbone repeat width, yarn colours, yarn count, usable width, weight and finishing. Agree the face side and cutting direction. Specify whether the cloth is intended for suits, jackets or trousers, then approve a cutting and pressing trial before bulk production.
For sales in Great Britain, the textile label must show fibre content, including fur and other animal parts. Match the declared composition to a fibre test. Agree checks for pilling, rubbing fastness and dimensional change after the intended cleaning process; keep the approved swatch and test results with the order.
Worked duty example
Illustrative example, not a quote: 180 m² of lightweight worsted wool herringbone fabric, illustrative under 5112 11 00 00, invoiced at £6,000 free on board, with £200 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £6,200. Duty at 8% is £496. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £6,696, so it is £1,339.20. Import taxes total £1,835.20; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £496 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.
Inspection checklist
Weave: compare the repeat and reversal points with the approved swatch; check for missing yarns, broken pattern lines and skew.
Composition and handle: compare fibre test results, weight, usable width and finish with the specification; feel for an unexpectedly harsh or loose cloth.
Shade and stability: compare rolls and the fabric across its width; test shrinkage after cleaning and check pattern alignment after pressing.
Rolls and packing: inspect for holes, stains, dampness and creases; reconcile roll lengths, shade lots and identification against the packing list.
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What goes wrong
A similar-looking sample can conceal a different repeat, yarn contrast or finishing treatment. Skewed herringbone makes jacket fronts and trouser legs look twisted, while shade differences become visible when panels from different rolls are sewn together.
Bulk cloth may pill, shrink or lose its approved handle after cleaning. Agree acceptance criteria before ordering, inspect the bulk lot and keep rolls separated by shade lot. Use testing and certification support to arrange the fabric checks specified in the purchase order.
Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.
Frequently asked questions
What is the UK import duty on worsted wool herringbone from China?
The supplied heading 5112 lines carry 8%, except the other-fabric line containing more than 10% silk by weight, which carries 6%. No anti-dumping or countervailing measures are recorded.
Does herringbone fabric have its own commodity code?
Choose from heading 5112 using the combed fibre composition, blend partners and weight. The herringbone pattern alone does not select the code.
What should I check on herringbone fabric before shipment?
Check the repeat, pattern alignment, shade across rolls, fibre content, usable width and weight. Test pilling, rubbing fastness and shrinkage after the intended cleaning process.
Why does wool herringbone fabric have a CITES control?
The heading also covers fine animal hair from protected species. Identify every animal fibre and ask your broker to confirm whether CITES documents are required for the Chinese shipment.