Sourcing worsted wool gabardine from China
Worsted wool gabardine from China carries 8% UK duty on the main wool and wool-blend lines, or 6% for qualifying blends containing more than 10% silk. Textile labels must show fibre content; check animal-fibre controls before shipment. Cambridge China Bridge sources worsted wool gabardine fabric.
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Duty by fibre blend and fabric weight
Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 9 November 2026, heading 5112 covers woven fabrics of combed wool or combed fine animal hair, including qualifying worsted wool gabardine. The main wool and wool-blend lines carry 8% duty for goods from China; the qualifying line containing more than 10% silk carries 6%. The supplied tariff record lists no anti-dumping or countervailing duty and no suspensions.
The tariff attaches CITES import and export controls. If the blend includes listed animal fibres, confirm the required permits with APHA and your customs broker before shipping from China. Code 5112 19 00 00 also carries cat and dog fur import and export controls: imports and exports of such fur and products made from it are banned. Ask the mill to identify every animal fibre.
Confirm the commodity code using fibre composition, filament or staple construction and fabric weight, rather than the name gabardine alone. See the wider worsted wool fabrics guide for other fabrics within this heading.
| Goods | Commodity code | Duty | Anti-dumping or countervailing duty on China |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gabardine with at least 85% wool or fine animal hair, up to 200 g/m² | 5112 11 00 00 | 8% | None |
| Gabardine with at least 85% wool or fine animal hair, over 200 g/m² | 5112 19 00 00 | 8% | None |
| Wool gabardine mixed mainly or solely with man-made filaments | 5112 20 00 00 | 8% | None |
| Wool gabardine mixed mainly with man-made staple fibres, up to 200 g/m² | 5112 30 10 00 | 8% | None |
| Wool gabardine mixed mainly with man-made staple fibres, over 200 g/m² | 5112 30 80 00 | 8% | None |
| Other qualifying wool gabardine blends containing more than 10% silk | 5112 90 10 00 | 6% | None |
Specify the gabardine twill and finish
Specify combed wool content, each blending fibre, yarn count, fabric weight, usable width and the direction and appearance of the diagonal twill. Agree a retained sample for handle, drape, surface sheen and shade. State whether the cloth is for trousers, uniforms or outerwear, and agree dimensional stability after the intended cleaning process.
Textile labels must show fibre content, including fur and other animal parts. Match the declared composition to fibre testing. REACH restrictions can limit, ban or set conditions on substances; ask a testing provider to identify applicable checks for the proposed dyes and finishes. Agree pilling, rubbing fastness and cleaning tests through testing and certification.
Worked duty example
Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 5,000 m² of worsted wool gabardine at 180 g/m² under 5112 11 00 00, invoiced at £60,000 free on board, with £1,500 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £61,500. Duty at 8% is £4,920. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £66,420, so it is £13,284. Import taxes total £18,204; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £4,920 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.
Inspection checklist
Composition and weight: compare fibre test results and measured fabric weight with the order and roll labels.
Twill and surface: inspect for broken diagonal lines, weaving bars, bow, skew and uneven finishing; compare handle and sheen with the retained sample.
Shade and stability: compare rolls and edge-to-centre shade, check rubbing fastness and test dimensional change after the agreed cleaning process.
Rolls and packing: check usable width, piece lengths, roll identification and moisture damage against the packing list before cutting.
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What goes wrong
A mill supplies a similar-looking twill with a different wool blend, weight or finish. The cloth passes a quick visual check but handles differently, pills or shrinks during cleaning. Diagonal distortion can show in trouser legs, while uneven sheen and shade differences become visible after panels are joined.
Approve a cutting and cleaning trial before bulk acceptance. Keep rolls separated by shade group and retain samples linked to their roll labels. Record faults before cutting and agree replacement or credit arrangements for cloth outside the specification.
Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.
Frequently asked questions
What is the UK import duty on worsted wool gabardine from China?
The main wool and wool-blend lines carry 8%; qualifying other blends containing more than 10% silk carry 6%. The supplied tariff record lists no anti-dumping or countervailing duty.
Does gabardine have its own commodity code?
The weave name alone does not determine the code. Confirm combed wool content, the other fibres, filament or staple construction and fabric weight.
What should I test before cutting wool gabardine?
Check fibre content, weight, shade, rubbing fastness, pilling and dimensional change after the intended cleaning process. Make a trial garment to assess drape and diagonal distortion.
Why does the tariff flag CITES on wool gabardine?
The heading also covers fine animal hair. If the blend contains a listed species, confirm the required permits with APHA and your customs broker before shipment.