Sourcing polyester herringbone from China

A flat 8% duty on polyester staple herringbone

Heading 5512 covers woven fabrics containing 85% or more by weight of synthetic staple fibres. The polyester lines apply where polyester staple fibres meet that threshold. Herringbone describes the reversing diagonal weave; the fibre composition and whether the fabric is unbleached, bleached, printed or otherwise finished determine the relevant line.

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 25 October 2026, all relevant polyester lines carried 8% duty for goods from China. The supplied tariff record lists no anti-dumping or countervailing duty, suspension or attached import control. Dyed and yarn-dyed herringbone share the same code, so the table shows them separately for buying purposes.

Confirm the commodity code using the composition report, yarn type and finishing description. Continuous-filament fabric belongs to a different heading. For wider heading context, see the polyester staple gabardine guide.

Specify the woven herringbone pattern

Specify spun polyester staple yarn, fibre composition, yarn count, construction density, weight, usable width and finish. Approve a fabric swatch showing the herringbone repeat, diagonal reversal, pattern clarity and face. State whether the appearance comes from the weave, contrasting yarns or an added print.

Agree acceptable shrinkage, pilling, tear strength and colour fastness to washing and rubbing for the intended garment. Record the required handle and drape after finishing. Textile labels must show fibre content; use the listed fibre names when fabric is sold to consumers, as explained in the site's published textile guides.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 6,000 metres of dyed polyester staple herringbone fabric under 5512 19 90 00, invoiced at £24,000 free on board, with £1,500 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £25,500. Duty at 8% is £2,040. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £27,540, so it is £5,508. Import taxes total £7,548; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £2,040 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Composition: test the production fabric to confirm polyester staple content and compare the result with the order and fibre information.

Weave: compare the repeat and diagonal reversals with the approved swatch; check for missing picks, broken ends, bowing and skew.

Shade and finish: compare rolls and both edges with the approved shade; check rubbing fastness, pilling and shrinkage against agreed acceptance criteria.

Rolls: measure usable width and supplied length; record faults and inspect wrapping for dampness. Use the quality inspection guide to organise the checks.

What goes wrong

A printed zigzag can be supplied instead of the agreed woven herringbone. Changes in yarn or finishing can flatten the pattern, alter the handle or increase pilling. Bowing and skew can make the pattern run unevenly across garment panels.

Roll shade differences become visible when panels are joined, while shrinkage can distort the pattern after washing. Keep an approved swatch and test production fabric before cutting. Ask the mill to identify each dye lot so the cutting room can keep matching rolls together.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.