Sourcing polyester staple gabardine from China

A flat 8% duty on polyester staple gabardine

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 25 October 2026, heading 5512 covers woven fabrics containing 85% or more synthetic staple fibres by weight. This guide concerns gabardine containing 85% or more polyester staple fibres. Its diagonal weave does not alone determine the commodity code.

The relevant polyester lines carry 8% duty on goods from China. The supplied tariff record lists no anti-dumping or countervailing duty, suspension or attached import control. Unbleached and bleached cloth share a code; printed cloth has a separate code from dyed or yarn-dyed cloth. The table separates unbleached and bleached buying options under their shared code.

Confirm the commodity code using tested fibre composition, yarn construction and colour treatment. Continuous-filament cloth and blends below the synthetic staple threshold fall outside this guide. See the wider synthetic staple fabric guide for the heading as a whole.

Specify the gabardine weave and garment performance

Specify polyester staple content, yarn count, warp and weft density, twill direction, mass per square metre and usable width. Agree a physical sample showing the diagonal rib, surface smoothness, handle and drape. State whether the gabardine is for trousers, skirts or uniforms, and identify the intended washing and pressing process.

Set acceptance criteria for pilling, abrasion, tear strength, washing shrinkage and colour fastness to washing and rubbing. Include seam slippage and puckering checks using your garment construction. Agree shade, roll length, defect marking and packing, and identify any finish that could alter handle or sewing behaviour.

For consumer sales, fibre composition labelling is required. Confirm with HSE which UK REACH restrictions on azo dyes apply to the intended skin-contact use. Ask for colour-specific test reports matched to the production fabric rather than relying on an unrelated mill certificate.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: 6,000 metres of dyed polyester staple gabardine, illustrative only under 5512 19 90 00, invoiced at £24,000 free on board, with £1,500 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £25,500. Duty at 8% is £2,040. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £27,540, so it is £5,508. Import taxes total £7,548; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £2,040 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Composition and construction: test fibre content and compare the yarn, diagonal rib, density, weight and usable width with the approved sample.

Shade and surface: compare rolls under consistent lighting; check side-to-centre shading, broken yarns, missing picks, stains and uneven finishing.

Garment performance: check pilling, strength, shrinkage and colour transfer against the agreed criteria; sew and press a sample to assess seam behaviour.

Roll identity and arrival: reconcile roll labels, lengths and batch records; inspect for dampness and damage. Use the quality inspection guide to prepare the inspection brief.

What goes wrong

A swatch can match the requested colour while bulk rolls differ in shade, feel lighter or show an uneven diagonal rib. Pilling and colour transfer can appear after wear, while shrinkage or seam puckering becomes apparent only after washing and pressing. Test production cloth using the intended garment process before accepting the shipment.

The description 'polyester gabardine' does not establish staple construction or fibre percentage. Substitution with filament yarn or a different blend can change classification and garment performance. Keep a signed sample and compare production test reports, roll records and consumer fibre labels with the actual cloth supplied.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.