Sourcing worsted tropical suiting from China

Duty by fibre blend and cloth weight

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 9 November 2026, heading 5112 covers woven fabrics of combed wool or combed fine animal hair. Chinese-origin tropical suiting generally carries 8% duty; the other-fabrics line containing more than 10% silk carries 6%. The supplied snapshot records no anti-dumping or countervailing measures and no suspensions.

The tariff attaches CITES import and export controls. Identify any animal hair and have your broker confirm applicable permits for the Chinese shipment; UK Border Force checks and endorses CITES documents. The heavier high-wool line also flags cat-and-dog-fur controls: imports and exports of that fur and products made from it are banned.

Confirm the commodity code using tested fibre percentages, filament or staple construction and measured weight. Where relevant, the tariff divides cloth at 200 g/m². A mill's description of 'tropical suiting' does not establish the code. See the wider worsted wool guide and the duty and VAT guide.

Specify the tropical suiting construction

Specify combed wool content, every blending fibre, yarn count and twist, weave, usable width, mass per unit area and finish. Agree the openness, handle, drape and opacity against a retained sample. Ask the mill to identify filament and staple components separately so the fabric specification supports classification.

Approve a sewn and pressed sample using the intended tailoring process. Check seam slippage, puckering, crease recovery and any distortion after pressing. Agree tests for fibre content, pilling, dry-cleaning dimensional change and rubbing fastness. Textile labels must show fibre content, including fur and other animal parts; keep composition reports with the batch records.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 5,000 m² of worsted wool tropical suiting fabric under 5112 11 00 00, invoiced at £60,000 free on board, with £1,500 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £61,500. Duty at 8% is £4,920. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £66,420, so it is £13,284. Import taxes total £18,204; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £4,920 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Identity: compare fibre test results, measured weight, weave and handle with the approved cloth and purchase specification.

Shade: compare rolls and the beginning, middle and end of each inspected piece; check colour transfer against the agreed rubbing test.

Tailoring: sew and press samples from production cloth; check seam opening, puckering, skew and dimensional change after the agreed cleaning process.

Arrival: check usable width, piece lengths, roll labels and packing list; inspect for broken yarns, weaving bars, creases, dampness and mould before cutting.

What goes wrong

An open cloth can match the sample's weight yet behave differently if yarn twist, weave density or finishing changes. Seams may open under strain, pressing can distort panels, and finishing may temporarily hide a harsher handle. Compare production cloth with the retained sample through sewing, pressing and cleaning.

Shade variation between rolls can leave jacket panels visibly mismatched. Shrinkage can spoil a cut garment, while polyester substitution changes fibre claims and handle. Keep affected rolls separate and resolve the batch evidence before cutting or accepting a replacement.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.