Sourcing polyester-silk fabric from China

A flat 8% duty for qualifying blends

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 30 September 2026, heading 5515 covers other woven fabrics of synthetic staple fibres. For polyester staple blended with silk, the polyester 'other' entries are candidates, subject to the actual composition and construction. The listed finishes carry 8% duty from China. Unbleached and bleached fabric share a code, so they appear separately in the table under that same code.

The relevant entries show no anti-dumping or countervailing duty and no suspension. The tariff attaches CITES import and export controls. A permit is required to import CITES-listed specimens into Great Britain. Ask the mill to identify the silk source and have your customs broker confirm whether the control applies to the fabric, which documents are needed and any export requirements.

Confirm the commodity code using the tested fibre proportions, whether the polyester yarn is staple or filament, and the fabric finish. A supplier's description of 'silk blend' is insufficient. For the wider heading, see our polyester staple-wool blend suiting guide.

Specify the silk share and woven construction

Write down the polyester and silk proportions by weight, all additional fibres, and the fibre and yarn construction in the warp and weft. Specify whether the silk is filament or spun, the weave, yarn count, mass per square metre, usable width and roll length. Approve a physical sample for handle, lustre and drape, alongside the written specification.

Fix the colour reference, shade band, print strike-off where relevant, finish and intended cleaning method. Fibre composition labelling is required for consumer textiles; use the listed fibre names as described in our reference guides. Confirm any applicable UK REACH restrictions on azo dyes releasing listed aromatic amines in skin-contact textiles with the relevant authority or your customs broker. Ask for composition results and relevant dye test reports for each dyed or printed quality.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 1,800 metres of dyed woven polyester staple-silk blend fabric under 5515 19 90 00, invoiced at £18,000 free on board, with £1,200 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £19,200. Duty at 8% is £1,536. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £20,736, so it is £4,147.20. Import taxes total £5,683.20; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £1,536 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Composition: compare laboratory fibre results with the ordered silk share and polyester share. Match reports to the delivered quality and batch, rather than accepting a generic mill certificate.

Rolls and colour: measure usable width and length, inspect weaving faults and selvedges, and compare shade across each roll and between rolls. Check print registration against the approved strike-off.

Seams and surface: sew a sample using the intended garment seam. Check seam slippage, snagging, tear strength and pilling against the agreed acceptance criteria.

Cleaning and packing: test dimensional change and colour transfer using the intended cleaning method. On arrival, check for damp wrapping, water marks, crushed rolls and missing batch identification. Use our inspection guide to organise the checks.

What goes wrong

A silky handle can hide a lower silk share than ordered. A soft finish can also change after cleaning, while loose constructions may open at seams or snag during handling. Shade differences between rolls become visible when garment panels are cut from different pieces.

Keep the approved fabric, shade band and cleaning results with the order records. Test bulk fabric before cutting, and separate suspect rolls until the mill has agreed a remedy. Match repeat orders to the retained sample and written construction, rather than the supplier's quality name alone.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.