Sector guides

Sourcing polyester-hemp fabric from China

Woven polyester-hemp blend fabric classified under heading 5515 pays a flat 8% UK duty from China. Confirm the fibre composition before choosing the code and preparing consumer labels; the tariff also attaches a CITES control. Check shrinkage, shade and hemp content against the approved sample. Cambridge China Bridge sources woven polyester-hemp blend fabric.

Written by Bono Xu, Founder, Cambridge China Bridge · 4 min read · Updated 2026-10-28

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UK duty on polyester-hemp woven fabric

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 30 September 2026, heading 5515 covers other woven fabrics of synthetic staple fibres. For polyester staple blended with hemp, assess the polyester 'Other' lines against the tested composition and processing state. The final table row is a comparison for changed synthetic fibre compositions, rather than a default polyester-hemp code. See the wider heading guide.

The supplied tariff facts show 8% duty on every listed line for goods from China, with no recorded anti-dumping or countervailing duty and no suspension. The polyester 'Other' lines carry CITES import and export controls. Official guidance requires permits for species listed on Annex A, B or C. Ask your customs broker to confirm the applicable requirement for the actual fibre species and shipment from China.

Give your broker the fibre test, confirmation that the polyester is staple rather than filament, weave description and bleaching, dyeing or printing details. Confirm the commodity code before dispatch. A supplier's description of 'hemp blend' is insufficient to establish the blend or classification.

UK duty on these lines for goods of Chinese origin (one code per row), read from the UK Trade Tariff on 30 September 2026.
GoodsCommodity codeDutyAnti-dumping or countervailing duty on China
Polyester staple blends with hemp, unbleached or bleached5515 19 10 008%None
Polyester staple blends with hemp, printed5515 19 30 008%None
Polyester staple blends with hemp, other finishes5515 19 90 008%None
Other synthetic staple blends, other finishes: composition comparison only5515 99 80 008%None

Specify the hemp fibre and finished cloth

Specify polyester and hemp content separately, and distinguish hemp from flax, ramie and viscose substitutes. Record the yarn construction, weave, mass per square metre, usable width, roll length, shade or print reference and finish. Agree whether visible slubs are part of the design or defects, using a sealed fabric sample.

Set acceptance criteria for wash shrinkage in warp and weft, pilling, tear strength, seam slippage and colour transfer. Approve the cloth after the intended washing process, since finishing can change its handle. Consumer textile labels must show fibre content. Confirm with HSE the applicable UK REACH restrictions on azo dyes releasing aromatic amines in skin-contact textiles, taking the site's reference guides as background; request colour-specific test reports.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: 8,000 metres of dyed woven polyester-hemp blend fabric, illustrative only under 5515 19 90 00, invoiced at £30,000 free on board, with £1,800 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £31,800. Duty at 8% is £2,544. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £34,344, so it is £6,868.80. Import taxes total £9,412.80; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £2,544 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Composition: obtain a laboratory report identifying the hemp and polyester fibres and their proportions; match it to the supplied lot and proposed fibre label.

Rolls: measure usable width and length, check mass per square metre, and inspect for broken yarns, excessive slubs, bowing, skew and damp packing.

Wash and seams: check dimensional change in both directions, pilling and seam slippage against the agreed specification using the intended care process.

Colour and finish: compare rolls with the approved shade band or print sample, test rubbing and washing fastness, and check handle after washing. Arrange testing and certification support around the actual fabric and intended use.

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What goes wrong

An attractive sample can conceal a different bulk blend or finish. Flax or viscose may be supplied against a hemp specification; excessive slubs become weak spots, washing changes the handle, and uneven shrinkage distorts cut panels. Treat fibre identity and wash performance as acceptance checks before cutting.

Roll-to-roll shade differences and skew become harder to resolve after garments or home textiles are made. Keep an approved sample, record defects by roll and separate suspect lots on arrival. Use the quality inspection guide to agree what is checked before shipment and again on receipt.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.

Frequently asked questions

What is the UK import duty on polyester-hemp fabric from China?

The supplied tariff facts show 8% duty on heading 5515 lines for goods from China, with no recorded anti-dumping or countervailing duty and no suspension. Confirm that the fabric belongs in this heading.

Which commodity code covers dyed polyester-hemp fabric?

Assess 5515 19 90 00 for a polyester staple blend with hemp in an 'Other' processing state. Confirm the full composition and yarn type with your customs broker before using it.

Does the CITES tariff control mean my hemp fabric needs a permit?

Ask your broker to confirm the requirement for the actual fibre species. The tariff attaches CITES controls to these lines; official guidance requires permits for species listed on Annex A, B or C.

How do I check that the fabric really contains hemp?

Ask a textile laboratory to identify the fibres and measure the blend. Match the report to the bulk lot, then compare the cloth with the sealed sample before cutting.

Sources

  1. UK Trade Tariff — commodity codes and duty
  2. Textile labelling
  3. Check if you need a CITES permit
  4. UK REACH Annex XVII restrictions, cited in the supplied reference guides

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