Sourcing viscose flannel fabric from China

UK duty on viscose flannel fabric

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 30 September 2026, heading 5516 covers woven fabrics of artificial staple fibres. This guide concerns brushed viscose flannel within that heading. The applicable line depends on the fibre blend and whether the fabric is dyed, woven from differently coloured yarns or printed. See the wider viscose and rayon fabrics guide.

All supplied lines carry 8% duty for goods from China, with no recorded anti-dumping or countervailing duty and no tariff suspension. Some lines attach CITES import and export controls. CITES specimens include items made from listed animal or plant material, and importing them requires a permit. If the composition raises a CITES question, confirm the species and shipment requirement with your customs broker before dispatch from China.

Use a fibre composition test and the mill's construction and colouring details to confirm the commodity code. Do not classify from the word flannel alone: it describes the fabric finish without establishing the fibre blend. The table gives possible lines for qualifying woven viscose flannel, rather than a code that applies to every brushed fabric.

Specify the blend and brushed surface

Specify fibre composition, yarn count, weave, mass per square metre, usable width and roll length. Describe which face is brushed, the required nap direction and the surface appearance after washing. Keep an approved sample showing the handle, pile coverage and shade. For checks and stripes, state the pattern repeat and how it should align when cut.

Agree shrinkage, pilling, shedding, tear strength and seam slippage acceptance criteria before ordering. Test the fabric using the intended garment care method, rather than judging only the unwashed sample. Ask the mill to identify pre-shrinking and finishing treatments.

Fibre composition labelling must identify the fibre content; confirm the correct label name for viscose fibre with Trading Standards. Confirm with HSE which UK REACH restrictions apply to azo dyes releasing aromatic amines in skin-contact textiles. Request test reports covering the ordered dyed or printed qualities, and match each report to the fabric and colour supplied.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 8,000 metres of dyed viscose flannel fabric under 5516 12 00 00, invoiced at £16,000 free on board, with £1,200 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £17,200. Duty at 8% is £1,376. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £18,576, so it is £3,715.20. Import taxes total £5,091.20; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £1,376 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Surface: compare brushing, nap direction and pile coverage with the approved sample; check for bare patches, loose fluff and pilling after washing and rubbing.

Dimensions: measure usable width and roll length; wash samples and compare dimensional change in warp and weft with the agreed limits.

Colour and pattern: compare rolls and the beginning and end of each inspected roll for shade; check rubbing transfer, print registration and check alignment.

Composition and strength: match fibre test results and roll identification to the order; check tear strength and seam slippage on washed fabric using the intended seam.

What goes wrong

A soft sample can conceal a weak base cloth. Brushing may leave an uneven surface, loose fibres or areas that look different when the nap is reversed. Washing can change the handle and dimensions, while dark shades may transfer onto other fabric. Agree acceptance criteria on washed samples before approving bulk production.

Keep rolls identifiable by colour and production batch, and compare incoming fabric with the retained approval sample before cutting. Separate rolls with different shades or finishes while the mill investigates. Use the quality inspection guide to prepare the inspection brief.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.