Sourcing viscose challis fabric from China

UK duty on viscose challis fabric

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 5 November 2026, heading 5516 covers woven fabrics of artificial staple fibres. For viscose challis, the relevant line depends on the fibre composition and whether the fabric is unbleached, bleached, dyed or printed. The supplied lines all carry 8% duty for goods from China, with no listed anti-dumping or countervailing duty and no tariff suspension.

The tariff attaches CITES import and export controls to the lines containing 85% or more artificial staple fibres, and to some other blend lines. CITES-listed specimens need an import permit. The supplied tariff data does not establish whether the control applies to your particular challis: ask your customs broker to confirm the requirement for the material sourced from China before shipment.

Confirm the commodity code against a fibre test and the finishing description, rather than the trade name alone. For other compositions and fabric types, see the viscose and rayon fabrics guide.

Specify challis for the garment and wash

Specify fibre composition, yarn count, weave, mass per square metre, usable width and finishing. Describe the intended dress, blouse or scarf and its care instructions. Keep an approved fabric sample for handle and drape, and agree acceptable shrinkage and seam performance against those instructions.

For printed challis, approve a strike-off showing the design, colourway and repeat before bulk production. For dyed fabric, retain an agreed shade sample. Request test reports for the actual dyed or printed quality, and confirm any applicable UK REACH azo dye restrictions for textiles intended for skin contact with the relevant authority.

The fibre label must show the fibre content. Confirm the appropriate fibre name for viscose, including viscose made from bamboo pulp, with the relevant authority. Keep the composition specification, test results and proposed label consistent.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: 15,000 metres of dyed viscose challis for a small clothing business; illustrative order and values under 5516 12 00 00, invoiced at £18,000 free on board, with £1,200 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £19,200. Duty at 8% is £1,536. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £20,736, so it is £4,147.20. Import taxes total £5,683.20; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £1,536 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Shrinkage: wash samples using the intended care instructions and measure movement in both fabric directions before approving cutting.

Strength and seams: check tear performance and seam slippage using the intended garment seam; viscose loses strength when wet.

Colour and print: compare rolls with the approved shade or strike-off, check print registration, and test washing and rubbing fastness.

Roll condition: check usable width, roll length, holes, weaving faults and damp packaging; retain samples identified by roll and colourway.

What goes wrong

Challis can look right on the sample table but shrink after washing, bleed colour or pull apart at seams. A print can match the approved design yet arrive with poor registration or shade differences between rolls. Cutting before these checks turns a fabric problem into a garment problem.

Wash-test before cutting and keep suspect rolls separate until the supplier has reviewed the evidence. Compare arrival samples with the retained approval sample and record the affected rolls. Use the quality inspection guide to organise the checks.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.