Sector guides

Sourcing silk dupion fabric from China

Silk dupion fabric from China carries UK duty of 4% to 6% across the relevant lines, depending on composition, weave and processing. Textile labels must show fibre content. Agree the slub texture, weight and shade before ordering, then check seam slippage and colour fastness. Cambridge China Bridge sources silk dupion fabric.

Written by Bono Xu, Founder, Cambridge China Bridge · 4 min read · Updated 2026-11-08

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Duty depends on composition and processing

Heading 5007 covers woven fabrics of silk or silk waste. Dupion is a slubbed silk fabric, but its trade name alone does not determine the code. The table shows candidate lines for wholly silk fabrics similar to shantung and for other dyed or yarn-dyed silk fabrics. See the silk habotai guide for the wider heading.

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 30 September 2026, qualifying wholly silk similar fabrics, plain-woven and unbleached or only scoured, carry 4% duty from China. Further-processed plain weaves in that group and the other dyed or yarn-dyed lines shown carry 6%. The supplied tariff record lists no anti-dumping or countervailing duty, suspension or attached import control for these lines.

Confirm the commodity code using fibre composition, weave, processing and whether the fabric is handwoven. The similar-fabric group excludes mixtures with noil, other silk waste or other textile fibres. A dupion description does not establish eligibility for its lower-duty line.

UK duty on these lines for goods of Chinese origin (one code per row), read from the UK Trade Tariff on 30 September 2026.
GoodsCommodity codeDutyAnti-dumping or countervailing duty on China
Similar wholly silk plain weave, unbleached or only scoured, handloom5007 20 21 104%None
Similar wholly silk plain weave, unbleached or only scoured, other5007 20 21 904%None
Similar wholly silk plain weave, further processed, handloom5007 20 31 206%None
Similar wholly silk plain weave, further processed, other5007 20 31 806%None
Other dyed silk fabrics containing at least 85% silk, other5007 20 59 906%None
Other silk fabrics containing at least 85% silk, different-coloured yarns, other5007 20 60 906%None

Specify the dupion slubs and handle

Approve a physical sample showing acceptable slub size, spacing and direction. Specify fibre composition, usable width, momme weight, stiffness, lustre and finish. For shot colours, approve the appearance with the fabric turned in different directions. Keep the approved sample with the purchase specification.

Agree seam-slippage and colour-fastness tests for the intended use. Check mass per unit area and fibre content rather than relying on the supplier's description. Textile labels must show fibre content. For dyed silk, confirm applicable UK REACH azo-dye restrictions with HSE and arrange testing as appropriate, using the site's silk-fabric guide to help plan the checks.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 3,000 square metres of dyed wholly silk plain-woven dupion qualifying as a similar fabric under 5007 20 31 80, invoiced at £24,000 free on board, with £900 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £24,900. Duty at 6% is £1,494. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £26,394, so it is £5,278.80. Import taxes total £6,772.80; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £1,494 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Texture: compare slubs with the approved sample; distinguish the agreed irregular texture from knots, missing yarns and weaving faults.

Shade: compare rolls and dye lots, including across the width; turn shot-colour fabric consistently when comparing its appearance.

Weight and performance: check usable width, mass per unit area and fibre composition; review seam-slippage and colour-fastness results.

Arrival condition: inspect for water marks, mildew, crushed tubes and persistent creases; retain roll identities when separating damaged stock.

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What goes wrong

A supplier may treat every thick yarn or knot as an acceptable dupion slub. Without an approved texture sample, the delivered cloth can look much rougher than expected. Shade differences and changes in shot-colour orientation can also become obvious only after panels are cut.

A stiff finish can disguise a lighter fabric, while seams may slip despite an acceptable surface appearance. Check bulk fabric against the sample before cutting. Agree roll inspection and lot-based testing through testing and certification.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.

Frequently asked questions

What is the UK import duty on silk dupion fabric from China?

The relevant lines carry 4% for qualifying wholly silk similar plain weaves, unbleached or only scoured, and 6% for further-processed or other dyed and yarn-dyed fabrics. Classification depends on the actual fabric.

Are slubs in silk dupion fabric defects?

Slubs are part of dupion's texture. Approve their size and spacing in a physical sample, then agree which knots, missing yarns and other weaving faults are unacceptable.

How do I check that dupion fabric is silk?

Use a fibre-composition test and compare the result with the specification and label. The fabric's name, sheen and feel do not establish its composition.

What should I test before cutting silk dupion?

Check seam slippage, colour fastness, weight and shade against the approved sample. Trial the intended seam and pressing method on bulk fabric before cutting the order.

Sources

  1. UK Trade Tariff — commodity codes and duty
  2. Textile labelling

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