Sector guides

Sourcing silk habotai fabric from China

Silk habotai fabric from China carries UK duty of 4% to 6%, depending on processing. Unbleached or only scoured plain weave carries 4%; further-processed plain weave carries 6%. Textile labels must show fibre content. Check momme weight, shade and seam slippage before shipment. Cambridge China Bridge sources silk habotai fabric.

Written by Bono Xu, Founder, Cambridge China Bridge · 4 min read · Updated 2026-11-08

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Duty on silk habotai fabric

Heading 5007 covers woven fabrics of silk or silk waste. This guide concerns habotai, a plain-woven silk fabric. The selected lines cover fabric wholly of silk, without noil, other silk waste or other textile materials. See the wider silk fabrics guide for other weaves and blends.

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 30 September 2026, wholly silk habotai, plain-woven and unbleached or not further processed than scoured, carried 4% duty from China. Further-processed plain-woven habotai carried 6%. Handloom and other manufacture carry the same rates. The supplied tariff snapshot lists no anti-dumping or countervailing duties, suspensions or attached import controls for these lines.

Confirm the commodity code using fibre composition, plain-weave construction, processing history and method of manufacture. Ask the factory to distinguish unbleached or only scoured fabric from bleached, dyed or printed fabric. A supplier's description of white habotai does not establish its processing history.

UK duty on these lines for goods of Chinese origin (one code per row), read from the UK Trade Tariff on 30 September 2026.
GoodsCommodity codeDutyAnti-dumping or countervailing duty on China
Wholly silk habotai, unbleached or only scoured, handloom5007 20 21 104%None
Wholly silk habotai, unbleached or only scoured, other manufacture5007 20 21 904%None
Wholly silk habotai, further-processed plain weave, handloom5007 20 31 206%None
Wholly silk habotai, further-processed plain weave, other manufacture5007 20 31 806%None

Specify habotai weight, finish and shade

Specify wholly silk filament fabric, plain weave, momme weight, usable width, roll length and the intended finish. Approve a sample for handle, lustre and transparency, then retain it for bulk comparison. State whether the fabric is for lining, garments or printing so the factory understands the required surface and performance.

Agree fibre-content, mass-per-area, seam-slippage and colour-fastness checks for the intended use. For sale in Great Britain, textile labels must show fibre content. For dyed habotai, confirm applicable UK REACH restrictions and any necessary azo-dye testing with the relevant authority before finalising the testing brief, using the wider silk guide to prepare your questions.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: 3,000 square metres of dyed silk habotai fabric, illustrative order under 5007 20 31 80, invoiced at £24,000 free on board, with £900 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £24,900. Duty at 6% is £1,494. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £26,394, so it is £5,278.80. Import taxes total £6,772.80; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £1,494 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Composition and weight: compare fibre-test results and measured mass per unit area with the specification; do not accept handle alone as evidence of silk content or momme weight.

Shade and finish: compare each dye lot with the approved sample and check across the width for shade bands, water marks and uneven lustre.

Weave and seams: inspect rolls against light for slubs, missing yarns and distortion; test seam slippage with the intended seam construction.

Rolls and records: check usable width, measured length, lot identification and fibre information on arrival; record crushed tubes, damp wrapping and creases before cutting.

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What goes wrong

Habotai can arrive lighter than the approved sample, with finishing agents masking the difference in handle. Shade variation becomes visible when panels from different rolls are sewn together. Smooth silk yarns can move at seams, while water marks and deep packing creases reduce usable fabric.

Keep dye lots separate until shade approval, test a sewn sample before bulk cutting and retain samples from disputed rolls. Agree packing on tubes in sealed bags and record defects by roll. Use the quality inspection guide to plan checks before shipment.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.

Frequently asked questions

What is the UK import duty on silk habotai from China?

The supplied tariff snapshot gives 4% for wholly silk plain-woven habotai that is unbleached or only scoured, and 6% for further-processed plain weave. No anti-dumping or countervailing duty is listed.

Does white habotai qualify for the lower duty?

Colour alone is insufficient. Confirm whether the fabric is unbleached or only scoured, rather than bleached or otherwise further processed, and retain the factory's processing description.

How do I check habotai momme weight?

Measure mass per unit area and compare it with the agreed momme specification and approved sample. Check fibre content separately; softness and lustre do not establish composition.

What should I test before cutting silk habotai?

Check shade consistency, seam slippage and colour fastness for the intended use. Make a sewn sample, keep dye lots separate and inspect rolls for water marks, yarn faults and persistent creases.

Sources

  1. UK Trade Tariff — commodity codes and duty
  2. Textile labelling

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