Sourcing silk charmeuse fabric from China

Duty on silk charmeuse fabric

Heading 5007 covers woven fabrics of silk or silk waste. Charmeuse is a satin-weave fabric with a lustrous face and a duller reverse. The relevant lines depend on fibre composition, processing and whether the fabric is handwoven. The table shows candidate classifications, subject to confirming the actual fabric.

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 5 November 2026, the relevant charmeuse lines carry 6% duty for goods from China. The supplied tariff record lists no anti-dumping or countervailing duties, suspensions or attached import controls for these lines. The lower rates elsewhere in the heading do not apply simply because a fabric is silk.

Confirm the commodity code using fibre analysis, weave, finish and loom information. Blends need particular care before choosing an other-fabrics line. See the wider silk fabrics guide for other weaves.

Specify the charmeuse face, weight and performance

Specify fibre composition, satin construction, momme weight, usable width and the intended face. Approve a sample showing the sheen, drape and reverse, then agree shade tolerances and how dye lots will be separated. State whether the fabric is for dresses, linings or accessories, since the intended use affects the tests you request.

Check mass per unit area and fibre content, then agree seam slippage and colour fastness tests. For dyed fabric, confirm any applicable UK REACH azo dye restrictions and suitable testing with the relevant authority. Textile labels must show fibre content. Keep the composition report with the approved sample and label wording.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 3,000 square metres of dyed silk charmeuse; illustrative FOB and freight values under 5007 20 59 90, invoiced at £24,000 free on board, with £900 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £24,900. Duty at 6% is £1,494. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £26,394, so it is £5,278.80. Import taxes total £6,772.80; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £1,494 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Composition and weight: compare fibre results and measured mass per unit area with the order specification and approved sample.

Shade and sheen: compare roll ends and fabric across the width under consistent lighting; keep dye lots identifiable.

Surface and dimensions: inspect the glossy face for snags, slubs, water marks and persistent creases; check usable width and roll length.

Performance and packing: check seam slippage and agreed fastness results; inspect tubes, sealed bags and signs of damp or crushing.

What goes wrong

A smooth satin appearance does not establish silk content. Substituted fibres or an undisclosed blend can change the label and classification. A finishing treatment can also disguise a fabric that is lighter than the approved sample. Compare bulk test results with the specification before accepting the shipment.

Charmeuse exposes shade bands, snagging and pressure marks on its glossy face. Smooth yarns can slip at seams even when the roll looks acceptable. Review a sewn sample as well as loose fabric, and record defects by roll and dye lot. Agree the acceptance checks through quality inspection.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.