Sourcing poly-viscose herringbone from China

8% duty on polyester-viscose herringbone

Heading 5515 covers other woven fabrics of synthetic staple fibres. This guide concerns polyester staple mixed mainly or solely with viscose rayon staple, woven in a herringbone pattern. Confirm the actual blend and finishing process rather than classifying from the pattern name alone.

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 30 September 2026, the relevant polyester-viscose lines carried 8% duty for goods from China. They listed no anti-dumping or countervailing duty, suspensions or attached import controls. Dyed and yarn-dyed goods share the same code, so those buyer descriptions appear separately in the table.

Provide a fibre composition report, weave description and finishing details to confirm the commodity code. See the polyester-viscose twill guide for wider coverage of this heading.

Specify the herringbone repeat and finish

Record the polyester and viscose proportions, yarn count, fabric weight, usable width and roll length. Define the herringbone repeat, stripe direction, face side and contrast between the diagonal ribs. Approve a finished sample showing the intended handle, shade and surface appearance.

Agree shrinkage, pilling, rubbing fastness and seam slippage acceptance criteria for the intended trousers, jackets or uniforms. State the wash method and any anti-pilling or crease-resistant finish. Keep a signed sample and shade band for repeat orders.

Textile labels must show fibre content. For consumer sales, confirm the permitted fibre names with the relevant authority rather than relying solely on the published blended-fabric guide. Confirm applicable UK REACH azo-dye restrictions for skin-contact textiles with HSE. Request colour-specific test reports for dyed or printed fabric and compare the tested material with the ordered quality.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: 8,000 metres of dyed polyester-viscose herringbone fabric, illustrative only under 5515 11 90 00, invoiced at £16,000 free on board, with £1,200 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £17,200. Duty at 8% is £1,376. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £18,576, so it is £3,715.20. Import taxes total £5,091.20; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £1,376 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Blend and dimensions: check laboratory fibre results against the ordered composition, then measure weight, usable width and roll length.

Pattern and rolls: unroll fabric to check broken ribs, inconsistent herringbone repeat, bowing, skew and weaving faults. Compare the face side and pattern alignment with the approved sample.

Colour and washing: compare rolls against the signed shade band, check rubbing fastness and wash samples before cutting. Measure dimensional change and inspect the pattern after washing.

Wear and records: test pilling and seam slippage against the agreed criteria. Match roll identifiers, shade lots and test reports to the delivered cloth. Use the inspection guide to prepare the inspection brief.

What goes wrong

A sample can show a clear herringbone while bulk rolls have uneven ribs or a different repeat. Bowing and skew make garment panels difficult to align. Shade differences between rolls become visible when sleeves, fronts and trouser legs are cut from different pieces.

Blend substitution changes handle and can make the fibre declaration inaccurate. Pilling, shrinkage and seam slippage may only become apparent after wear or washing. Inspect delivered rolls before cutting, keep suspect lots separate and retain samples carrying their roll identifiers.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.