Sourcing polyester viscose twill fabric from China

UK duty on polyester-viscose twill

Heading 5515 covers other woven fabrics of synthetic staple fibres. For this guide, the relevant branch is polyester staple mixed mainly or solely with viscose rayon staple. Twill describes the weave; the blend and whether the cloth is unbleached, bleached, printed or otherwise finished determine the relevant line.

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 30 September 2026, the relevant polyester-viscose lines carried 8% duty on goods from China. The supplied tariff data lists no anti-dumping or countervailing duty, suspension or import control for these lines. Dyed and yarn-dyed cloth share the same code in the table.

Confirm the commodity code using the tested fibre composition and finish rather than the supplier's fabric name. See the polyester-viscose gabardine guide for related cloth within the wider heading.

Specify the twill and garment wash

Specify the polyester and viscose proportions, yarn count, density, twill construction and diagonal direction, mass per square metre, usable width and finish. Keep an approved sample showing the face, handle and shade. Agree roll lengths, acceptable weaving faults and the washing method before the mill makes bulk cloth.

For consumer sales, fibre composition labelling is required; confirm the permitted fibre names with the relevant authority. Test the blend before preparing fabric or garment labels. Confirm with HSE the applicable UK REACH restrictions on azo dyes that release aromatic amines in textiles intended for skin contact. Ask for test reports covering the ordered dyed or printed qualities.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: 8,000 metres of dyed polyester-viscose twill fabric, illustrative order under 5515 11 90 00, invoiced at £16,000 free on board, with £1,200 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £17,200. Duty at 8% is £1,376. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £18,576, so it is £3,715.20. Import taxes total £5,091.20; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £1,376 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Blend and dimensions: test fibre composition and measure weight, usable width and roll length against the order.

Twill and shade: check diagonal direction, bowing, skew, broken yarns and shade differences within and between rolls against the approved sample.

Wear: test pilling, tear strength and seam slippage against agreed acceptance criteria, using a sewn sample for the intended trousers or uniform.

Wash and colour: measure shrinkage after the agreed wash, check rubbing and washing colour fastness, and inspect whether the twill distorts.

What goes wrong

A matching swatch can hide a different bulk blend, lighter cloth or uneven finishing. Viscose-rich cloth can shrink, seams can slip on fitted trousers, and rolls from different dye lots can produce mismatched garment panels. Bowed or skewed twill can also distort the cut pieces.

Wash-test bulk samples before cutting, keep roll and dye-lot identities, and compare each delivery with the signed shade band. Check failures against the agreed specification before accepting the shipment. See quality inspection explained.

Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.