Sourcing lightweight cotton cambric from China
Lightweight cotton cambric from China under heading 5208 carries 8% UK duty for the ordinary fabric lines, with no anti-dumping duty. Classification depends on cotton content, weight, width and finish; textile fibre labelling and restricted azo dyes also matter. Cambridge China Bridge sources lightweight cotton cambric fabric.
Cambric codes and UK duty
Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 30 September 2026, heading 5208 covers woven fabrics containing 85% or more cotton by weight and weighing not more than 200 g/m². Lightweight cotton cambric is bought as a fine plain-weave fabric, but its trade name alone does not determine the commodity code.
The ordinary cambric lines shown carry 8% duty for goods from China. The supplied tariff record lists no anti-dumping or countervailing measures or attached import controls. Its 4.00 % suspension concerns unbleached fabric for manufacturing bandages, dressings and medical gauzes under 5208 11 10 00; ordinary clothing or craft cambric should not be treated as that medical-use line.
Confirm the commodity code using fibre composition, measured weight, width and whether the fabric is unbleached, bleached, dyed or printed. For broader coverage of this heading, see the cotton lawn fabric guide.
| Goods | Commodity code | Duty | Anti-dumping or countervailing duty on China |
|---|---|---|---|
| Unbleached plain-weave cambric, not over 100 g/m², non-medical | 5208 11 90 00 | 8% | None |
| Bleached plain-weave cambric, not over 100 g/m², non-medical | 5208 21 90 00 | 8% | None |
| Dyed plain-weave cambric, not over 100 g/m² | 5208 31 00 00 | 8% | None |
| Printed plain-weave cambric, not over 100 g/m², other | 5208 51 00 99 | 8% | None |
| Unbleached cambric, over 100 to 130 g/m², width not over 165 cm | 5208 12 16 00 | 8% | None |
| Bleached cambric, over 100 to 130 g/m², width not over 165 cm | 5208 22 16 00 | 8% | None |
| Dyed cambric, over 100 to 130 g/m², width not over 165 cm | 5208 32 16 00 | 8% | None |
| Printed plain-weave cambric, over 100 g/m², other | 5208 52 00 99 | 8% | None |
Specify the cambric construction and finish
Write down cotton content, yarn count, plain-weave construction, thread density, finished weight, usable width and roll length. Approve the surface, opacity and handle on a retained sample. State whether the finish is calendered and compare samples after washing, because a smooth finish can hide a loose construction.
Agree wash shrinkage, tear strength and colour fastness against the intended clothing, lining or craft use. Ask for restricted azo dye testing for dyed and printed batches, as advised in the reference guide. Textile labels must show fibre content when selling in Great Britain; check that the declared composition matches the fabric. Arrange testing and certification around the actual material and use.
Worked duty example
Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 10,000 metres of dyed lightweight cotton cambric, not over 100 g/m² under 5208 31 00 00, invoiced at £12,000 free on board, with £900 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £12,900. Duty at 8% is £1,032. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £13,932, so it is £2,786.40. Import taxes total £3,818.40; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £1,032 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.
Inspection checklist
Construction: check fibre content, weight and thread density against the approved sample and specification.
Surface and shade: inspect rolls under consistent lighting for slubs, oil marks, broken yarns, edge-to-centre shade changes and uneven calendering.
Wash performance: compare shrinkage, handle and colour transfer after the agreed washing procedure.
Roll identity: check usable width, length, dye-lot labels and packing records; keep shade samples linked to each lot. See quality inspection explained.
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What goes wrong
A heavily finished sample can feel smoother and firmer than the bulk fabric. After washing, the finish changes and the cloth may become softer, more transparent or smaller than expected. Compare washed samples before accepting the construction.
Shade differences between rolls can become visible only after pieces are cut and sewn together. Keep dye lots separate during cutting, record weaving faults by roll and agree how short lengths or unusable sections will be handled before shipment.
Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.
Frequently asked questions
What is the UK import duty on cotton cambric from China?
The ordinary lightweight cotton cambric lines shown under heading 5208 carry 8% duty. The 4.00 % suspension is for the specified unbleached medical-manufacturing fabric, not ordinary cambric.
Does the name cambric decide the commodity code?
No. Confirm cotton content, plain weave, measured weight, width and finish. A supplier's trade name is insufficient to choose the code.
How do I check whether cambric will shrink?
Wash a sample using the agreed procedure, measure dimensional change and compare the washed handle and appearance with your approved sample.
Does cotton cambric need a fibre label?
Textile labels must show fibre content when selling in Great Britain. Check the declared composition against the supplied fabric.