Sourcing denim and heavy cotton fabrics from China

8% duty

Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 17 November 2026, heading 5209 covers woven fabrics of cotton containing 85% or more cotton by weight and weighing more than 200 g/m2, split by finish (unbleached, bleached, dyed, yarn-dyed, printed) and weave. The lines shown carried 8% on goods from China, with no anti-dumping measure.

Lighter cotton fabrics of 200 g/m2 or less are heading 5208, covered in our cotton woven fabrics guide; blends with less than 85% cotton are other headings, so confirm the commodity code from a fibre test.

Specifying heavy cotton

Specify weight in g/m2 or ounces, construction (ends and picks, yarn counts), weave, width, finish (sanforised, mercerised, coated or waxed), shade against the standard, shrinkage after washing, tear and tensile strength, and colour fastness to washing, rubbing and light. For denim, agree the indigo shade range and how it will be washed down.

Garments and bags sold to consumers generally need fibre composition labels under the Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition) Regulations 2012, and any stretch fibre must be declared where labelling is required; certain products, including travel goods of textile materials, are exempt from mandatory fibre composition labelling.

Worked duty example

Illustrative example, not a quote: 10,000 metres of 12 oz indigo denim under 5209 42 00 00, invoiced at £32,000 free on board, with £1,500 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £33,500. Duty at 8% is £2,680. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £36,180, so it is £7,236. Import taxes total £9,916; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £2,680 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.

Inspection checklist

Construction: check weight, width and construction on samples from several rolls.

Shade: compare shade roll to roll and against the standard under the agreed light source.

Performance: test shrinkage, strength and fastness, and check rolls with a four-point fabric inspection. See our quality inspection guide.

What goes wrong

Heavy cotton orders fail on weight, shade and shrinkage. Fabric is lighter than agreed, shade varies between rolls so cut panels do not match, shrinkage is high because the fabric was not pre-shrunk, and denim crocks onto other fabrics.

Cambridge China Bridge sources fabrics for UK workwear, bag and denim makers from small lots, with lab dips and strike-offs approved first; see small orders.