Sourcing cotton poplin fabric from China
Cotton poplin within heading 5208 pays 8% UK import duty from China across the ordinary fabric lines, with no anti-dumping duty shown. Confirm fibre content, weight, finish and width for classification, and fibre labelling for sale. Cambridge China Bridge sources cotton poplin fabric.
Cotton poplin codes and UK duty
Read from the UK Trade Tariff on 4 November 2026, heading 5208 covers woven fabric containing 85% or more cotton by weight and weighing not more than 200 g/m². This guide focuses on plain-weave cotton poplin. The finish, weight and sometimes width determine the commodity line; the name poplin alone does not settle classification.
The ordinary poplin lines shown carry 8% duty for goods from China. The supplied tariff facts show no anti-dumping or countervailing duty, suspensions or attached import controls on these selected lines. A separate suspension gives 4% on unbleached fabric for manufacturing bandages, dressings and medical gauzes under 5208 11 10 00; do not apply that rate to ordinary shirting poplin.
Confirm measured fibre content, weight, finish and width before choosing your commodity code. For other weaves and cotton fabric types, see the wider cotton woven fabrics guide.
| Goods | Commodity code | Duty | Anti-dumping or countervailing duty on China |
|---|---|---|---|
| Unbleached plain-weave poplin, not over 100 g/m², other | 5208 11 90 00 | 8% | None |
| Bleached plain-weave poplin, not over 100 g/m², other | 5208 21 90 00 | 8% | None |
| Dyed poplin, over 100 to 130 g/m², width not over 165 cm | 5208 32 16 00 | 8% | None |
| Dyed poplin, over 100 to 130 g/m², width over 165 cm | 5208 32 19 00 | 8% | None |
| Dyed poplin, over 130 to 200 g/m², width not over 165 cm | 5208 32 96 00 | 8% | None |
| Dyed poplin, over 130 to 200 g/m², width over 165 cm | 5208 32 99 00 | 8% | None |
| Yarn-dyed plain-weave poplin, over 100 to 200 g/m² | 5208 42 00 00 | 8% | None |
| Printed plain-weave poplin, over 100 to 200 g/m², other | 5208 52 00 99 | 8% | None |
Specify poplin construction and washing behaviour
Specify cotton content, plain weave, yarn count, ends and picks per centimetre, weight, usable width and finish. Agree the handle and opacity against an approved sample, particularly for pale shirt fabrics. State whether the fabric is dyed, yarn-dyed or printed, and identify each colour and dye lot.
Agree shrinkage and colour-fastness acceptance criteria before production. Test washed samples for dimensional change and compare the handle with the unwashed sample. For dyed fabric intended for direct and prolonged skin contact, confirm any applicable UK REACH azo dye restrictions with the relevant authority and request colour-specific test reports. Textile labelling must show fibre content; clothing made from the fabric must carry a fibre label.
Worked duty example
Illustrative example, not a quote: Illustrative order: 10,000 metres of dyed cotton poplin, 120 g/m², 150 cm wide under 5208 32 16 00, invoiced at £12,000 free on board, with £900 of freight and insurance to the UK. The customs value is £12,900. Duty at 8% is £1,032. Import VAT at 20% is charged on the customs value plus duty, £13,932, so it is £2,786.40. Import taxes total £3,818.40; a VAT-registered importer can usually reclaim the VAT, so the lasting cost is the £1,032 of duty. The import duty and VAT guide explains each step.
Inspection checklist
Construction: check fibre content, weight, thread density and usable width against the agreed specification.
Shade: compare each dye lot with the approved sample and check edge-to-centre variation across the roll.
Washing: check shrinkage and colour fastness on production fabric, including colour transfer during rubbing.
Rolls: inspect for weaving faults, slubs, oil stains and damp damage; reconcile roll lengths and lot labels with the packing list.
Working out your own order? Send us the product on WhatsApp and we reply the same working day: WhatsApp us
What goes wrong
A poplin sample can feel firm while production fabric has fewer picks or a different finish. Pale colours may prove too transparent, and uneven dyeing can leave visible panels when garments are assembled. Keep approved construction and shade samples available during inspection.
Excessive shrinkage changes garment sizing and cutting yield. Mixing dye lots can create mismatched collars, cuffs and body panels. Keep lots separate and resolve shade or washing failures before cutting; arrival checks should compare production rolls with the approved sample.
Cambridge China Bridge sources these products for UK businesses, checking the factory and the documents before shipment. See factory verification. For repeat volumes, see container programmes.
Frequently asked questions
What is the UK import duty on cotton poplin from China?
The ordinary cotton poplin lines selected under heading 5208 carry 8% duty from China, with no anti-dumping or countervailing duty shown in the supplied tariff facts.
Does all fabric sold as cotton poplin fall under 5208?
No. This heading covers woven fabric containing at least 85% cotton and weighing not more than 200 g/m². Confirm composition and weight rather than relying on the supplier's product name.
What should I test before buying cotton poplin?
Check fibre content, weight, thread density, usable width, shrinkage and colour fastness. Compare production fabric with the approved sample and request restricted azo dye reports for relevant dyed fabric.
Does cotton poplin need fibre labelling?
Textile labelling must show fibre content. Clothing made from the fabric must carry a fibre label, so verify composition before preparing garment labels.